The Danube Delta is where Europe's second-longest river meets the Black Sea. It is the largest and best-preserved river delta on the continent, and most of it lies in Romania, in Tulcea County. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a Biosphere Reserve, and it is one of the best places in Europe to watch birds.
How to get there The gateway to the Delta is the city of Tulcea, about four to five hours by road from Bucharest. From Tulcea, passenger boats and fast ferries run to Sulina, Crișan and other settlements. Many villages have no through road, so the boat is the road. Allow extra time: schedules depend on the season and on the water level.
What to see Wide channels lead into a maze of lakes, reed beds and willow forests. Pelicans, herons, egrets, cormorants and glossy ibis are easy to see from a small boat, and more than three hundred bird species have been recorded in the area. Letea Forest is famous for its oak trees draped in lianas and for the semi-wild horses that graze near the dunes. Sulina, the easternmost town in Romania, has a long pier, a lighthouse and a quiet beach on the Black Sea. Sfântu Gheorghe is a small fishing village with a wide sandy beach.
When to go Late spring and early summer bring nesting birds and long evenings, and water lilies bloom in summer. September and October are good for bird migration and for fewer visitors. Winter is quiet, cold and misty.
A simple itinerary A good first trip is three days. Spend the first day in Tulcea and take an afternoon boat trip. Move to a guesthouse in a village such as Crișan or Mila 23 for two nights, with one long morning on the water at sunrise, when birds are most active. Add a half day in Sulina or on the beach at Sfântu Gheorghe if you want to see the sea.
Practical tips Book a guesthouse in advance in high season. Choose a licensed local guide: the channels are complex, and the protected areas have rules. Bring insect repellent, sun protection and binoculars. Try fish soup (ciorbă de pește), a regional speciality. Keep your distance from nesting areas and from wildlife, and take your waste with you.
The Delta rewards slow travel. Come for the light, the silence and the feeling of being a long way from anywhere.